This month’s Featured Archive Article:

By Patricia Heitz

Trillion, Paul Zane Pilzer predicts that the wellness industry is an area of wealth and growth.
“anyone who positions himself to take advantage of supplying wellness information and/or products … stands to make a literal fortune in this decade,” says Pilzer.

So how can we skin care and spa professionals blend both the booming anti-aging and wellness markets into what we do? We can offer holistic, anti-aging skin care.

Holism

The word “holistic” comes from the Greek word holos, meaning whole. Holism is based on the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. To practice the true meaning of the word is to assess the client or patient as a “whole” person. This means to assess areas other than the skin; to take into account what other factors are going on in the client’s life that manifests as symptoms on the skin. It is an overview of the condition of mind, body and spirit. As skin care therapists, we primarily work with the skin, however, as an organ of elimination and protection, the skin is an important indicator of toxicity and inflammation within.

Aging starts from within

Marcelle Pick, OB-GYN, N.P., the director of Women to Women (www.womentowomen.com), a medical clinic devoted to health care for women, which is located in Yarmouth, MN, has written extensively on women and skin aging issues. Pick suggests that through all of the research performed over the years, we now understand what causes the skin to age. The main causative factor centers around inflammation, and that premature aging, acne, dermatitis and rosacea are all “conditions that have been recently been linked to chronic inflammation,” says Pick.

“By the time a woman sees visible signs of aging (usually in her late 30s or early 40s), it is highly likely she’s been operating with low-grade inflammation for years. Undiagnosed food sensitivities, poor diet, stress, hormonal imbalance, toxic overload … form a potent challenge to the immune system, making it harder for the body to fight inflammation on the inside. On the outside, sun exposure, weather, bacteria and environmental toxins trigger an immune response that ultimately weakens collagen, dilates surface blood capillaries and clogs pores,” says Pick.

Free radicals and the aging process

What causes this inflammation? Free radicals. Let’s review what a free radical is, how it is formed and how it contributes to cell destruction. Cells are composed of many different types of molecules. Molecules are made up of one or more atoms. The number of protons (positively charged particles) in the atom’s nucleus determines the number of electrons (negatively charged particles that orbit the atom). These electrons bond atoms together to form larger molecules. When an electron is lost, the molecule becomes oxygenized, radical and highly unstable and it starts to steal electron(s) from other molecules to stabilize itself. This starts a domino effect and creates countless other free radicals, as these newly formed free radicals try to stabilize themselves. As these free radicals steal electrons from other molecules within the cell, the cell is weakened. Our body’s immune system steps up to restabilize these molecules with antioxidants that neutralize free radicals. However, as we age, our immune systems weaken, therefore weakening the response to free radicals. Cumulative cell damage results, which over a period of time, weakens collagen tissue and results in wrinkles and loss of elasticity. The most damage occurs when free radicals react with important cellular components such as DNA or the cell membrane. Cells may function poorly or die.

Free radicals are a result of what we feed our bodies as well as what we expose our bodies to, such as pollution and ultraviolet light, either natural or artificial. Free radicals fuel inflammation. The worst culprits in creating free radicals internally are smoking, a poor diet that also includes a high content of processed foods and drugs. Dehydration, and what we manufacture within our body as a response to stress, such as adrenaline and cortisol, also create internal free-radical damage.

How do we negate these effects? Antioxidants. Antioxidants give back the missing electron(s) to stabilize the cell without an adverse effect on its integrity. Antioxidants are found in nature, in the natural food we eat, and in natural substances within topically applied products. Diets rich in antioxidants infuse our immune system with the tools needed to prevent and repair free-radical damage. The most important antioxidants with regard to skin aging are vitamins A, C and E.

Vitamin E, d-alpha tocopherol, is a fat-soluble vitamin (stored in the fat of the body; can be toxic if overdosed). It is present in nuts, seeds, vegetable and fish oils, whole grains, fortified cereals and apricots.

Vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin, (excreted in urine if too much is ingested) present in citrus fruits and juices, green peppers, cabbage, spinach, broccoli, kale, cantaloupe, kiwi and strawberries.

Vitamin A, retinol, is present in liver, egg yolks, milk, butter, spinach, carrots, squash, broccoli, yams, tomato, cantaloupe, peaches and grains. Vitamin C is a precursor to vitamin A. Because the body converts beta-carotene to vitamin A, there is no set requirement.

But unless you are a physician or nutritionist, you should not recommend any specific diet changes to a client. It is always recommended that the client visit a specialist in this area.

Esthetic therapies

Normally, when we see clients with aging skin, we tell them to stay out of the sun and drink more water. However, as you can see, it is more complicated than that. If we are to really treat the skin “holistically,” we need to take into account all of the factors that affect the skin. Adding the following categories to a client intake form will allow for a better assessment of the “whole” person and it can lead to recommendations for further follow-up with other professionals:

Skin care

Starting with a general assessment on a client’s overall health and how it relates to the skin is the first step in holistic treatment. This assessment is essential before recommending any services such as a peel and/or microdermabrasion. Understanding the ski ’s ability to repair itself will allow you to better gauge how aggressive different peels and abrasion services should be. The more invasive the service, the healthier the skin should be, because the skin’s ability to regenerate itself after these aggressive services is the key to obtaining optimum results. Moreover, professional services and home care that support the skin’s health prior to any wound-inducing services will allow for better results. Remember, when you do any peel or abrasion service, you cause an inflammatory response in the skin, which can further enhance free-radical damage. Therefore, make sure you treat any free-radical damage in the skin and perform one or more antioxidant treatments prior to the abrasion service. In addition, you should recommend antioxidant treatments for home care prior to the service, and then treat the skin after the abrasion service with high levels of antioxidants to enhance the skin’s ability to repair itself.

Anti-aging diet

In general, recommend that clients follow the recommended dietary allowance (RDA) guidelines and eat foods with a low glycemic index (sugar). Also encourage them to increase intake of antioxidant-rich foods such as colorful vegetables, berries, fruits and green tea.

Water intake is important, too, and we should really drink half our body weight in ounces of water a day. In addition, nutritional supplements rich in minerals and essential fatty acids are beneficial. Essential fatty acids (EFAs) help keep the skin lubricated from within, especially for aging skin where quality of lipids diminishes with age.

Clients should also be encouraged to avoid or limit sugar, caffeine, artificial sweeteners, trans fats and simple carbohydrates. These can be highly inflammatory, especially to those with acne or rosacea.

According to many in the health field and Ayurvedic practitioners, a total body cleanse a few times a year to “detox” is very good to help keep the immune system working well.

Life’s dos and don’ts

In general, there are many things a client can do to keep his or her entire system working at its peak. Pass on some of the following recommendations and augment your own daily routines, too. After all, you should practice what you preach.

• Exercise daily to reduce stress, keep circulation at its peak, and help your body naturally detoxify.
• Find positive energy sources to inspire you and keep you in a positive mindset. Surround yourself with only positive people.
• Avoid ultraviolet exposure (natural sunlight and artificial ultraviolet rays). This is the most common cause of free-radical damage.
• Don’t smoke. Smoking can add 10 years to the appearance of the skin.
• De-stress. While stress may be difficult to eliminate from a lifestyle, try to help clients recognize it and start making changes to eliminate stress triggers. Negative energy can be stored in the skin, therefore, recommend ways to
• release feelings of anger, anxiety and fear, such as with meditation, deep breathing or “mindfulness” exercises. Remember, any negative energy causes the body to work harder and weakens the immune system.
• Keep drugs to a minimum, only use them when there is an acute need or when a doctor recommends them for a short duration. If you look at your clients from a “whole” standpoint, you will steer them to

If you look at your clients from a “whole” standpoint, you will steer them to maximum health and wellness. When they feel better, skin looks better; when the skin looks better, you are the hero!

About Patricia Heitz

Patricia Heitz, is a CIDESCO diploma holder, esthetician, cosmetologist, empowerment trainer, former esthetics school director and instructor, and owner of Patricia Heitz Consulting, Delmar, NY, which offers empowerment workshops, spa sales and school training. She is an industry author, speaker, educator, and exclusive consultant for Gerson/Lehrman, Financial Analysts, NY. She can be reached at (518) 261-1236 or pheitz@nycap.rr.com.