This month’s Featured Article:

The quest for quality skin care products that offer consistent and noticeable results can be a daunting one. An additional concern that patients, clinicians and manufacturers should consider is a product line’s affinity for the environment. Unfortunately, it can often be difficult to locate a group of products that serves both of these interests. Developing a proper understanding of which factors have the heaviest impact on the health of both the skin and the planet assist the clinician in locating the most results-oriented and eco-friendly products available.

The pros and cons of all natural ingredients

The debate regarding natural versus scientifically engineered ingredients is ongoing. When it comes to caring for the environment, many believe that natural ingredients are the best option. However, that is not always the case. In certain circumstances, naturally sourced materials can actually have a negative impact on our surroundings. It is important to consider the depletion of natural resources when using an abundance of naturally derived ingredients. Certain types of sandalwood, for example, are endangered, and using an endangered species purely for cosmetic reasons would be irresponsible. Additionally, many environmentalists express concerns about the destruction of rain forests and other natural habitats for the purpose of harvesting natural substances.
Another consideration is the preparation of a natural ingredient in order to make it suitable for topical use. All ingredients must be prepared in a lab prior to formulation, regardless of where they were obtained. That means that the carbon footprint produced by natural ingredients is equal to those substances created by cosmetic chemists. Therefore, naturally sourced ingredients, while certainly useful in skin care, are not always the most eco-friendly choice.
Natural ingredients can be very beneficial when applied topically, but overall product efficacy often falls short. In many circumstances, patients seeking correction of acne, hyperpigmentation and visible aging may not get the results they are looking for with all-natural products. When treating acne, for example, natural botanicals such as eucalyptus globulus leaf oil and calendula officinalis (marigold) flower oil reduce bacteria and inflammation. However, using these ingredients alone usually will not be enough to completely clear acne lesions. Utilizing a combination of these types of natural ingredients in conjunction with scientifically designed ingredients leads to well-rounded formulations capable of treating even the most stubborn skin concerns.

The benefits of scientifically formulated ingredients

Scientifically engineered topical ingredients refer to those that are designed to mimic natural substances. Scientific processes allow for the creation of exact replicas of natural components or their improved counterparts, which helps to alleviate some of the strain on vulnerable natural resources and the disruption of environmental habitats.

Naturally sourced ingredients, while certainly useful in skin care, are not always the most eco-friendly choice.

The production of scientifically designed ingredients also makes it possible to formulate with constituents that are not obtainable through natural resources. Some of the most effective and widely used ingredients in skin care are not found in nature. Retinol, benzoyl peroxide and hydroquinone are examples of ingredients that are only attainable through scientific production. Their availability makes it possible to dramatically improve all grades of acne, severe cases of hyperpigmentation and other difficult-to-treat skin conditions. In order to improve the health and appearance of the skin, one must evaluate the formulation as a whole. The synergistic effects of natural and scientifically engineered ingredients create the most efficacious products.

Carbon footprint of product manufacturing and packaging

Where a product is being manufactured is also important to investigate. For example, if a product is manufactured overseas, the amount of carbon emissions produced will be greater than if the same product were manufactured near the packaging and dispensing facility. Transporting goods over long distances on a regular basis contributes significantly to the amount of greenhouse gases it produces. Many overlook such details when researching potential product lines, even though they have a large impact on the environment.
The eco-conscious clinician should also take a product line’s packaging into consideration. Packaging can create a great deal of waste if it is not recyclable and/or biodegradable. Appropriate packaging is crucial to product stability, and while caring for the Earth is important, packaging must be able to withstand the potency of the ingredients they contain. Materials such as high density polyethylene (a hard plastic) and glass can be frosted to prevent photodegradation, the breakdown of active ingredients by light, and also remain intact when they come in contact with acidic products. These types of packaging are also recyclable by most cities in the U.S. Boxes are another form of packaging and although most cardboard is recyclable, a manufacturer must also consider the dyes and laminates used to design and brand these boxes. The use of styrofoam is incredibly detrimental to the environment; however many companies continue to include styrofoam in their packaging in order to protect products during transit. Biodegradable, recyclable and reusable options are now available. Vegetable-based foam-like products, for example, are excellent styrofoam substitutes, as they are made from annually renewable resources and dissolve naturally over time. This alternative is an ecologically sound choice that is also effective for product protection during shipping.

The following chart outlines some of the most beneficial ingredient pairings for common skin ailments.

The desire for results is the one thing all esthetic patients have in common, and delivering those results ensures that a practice is successful.

Effectively serving the skin and the environment

It is the responsibility of all of us as human beings to do our part to conserve and protect our planet. As skin care specialists, our patients count on us to provide them with products that will consistently address their skin concerns. Being able to confidently recommend a product line that addresses care for both the skin and the environment can certainly be challenging, but it is possible.
The desire for results is the one thing all esthetic patients have in common, and delivering those results ensures that a practice is successful.
Investigating a product’s ecological impact can be more difficult than evaluating its benefits. However, an eco-friendly company will be happy to share the steps they take to defend the environment. When researching a new line or evaluating the environmental toll of an existing line, it is recommended that the clinician inquire about the following:
• Where are the products manufactured
and packaged?
• How are ingredients chosen?
• How much research is put into the source of naturally derived ingredients?
• How are the ingredients prepared for topical use?
• How much of the packaging
is recyclable/biodegradable?
Determining what is and what is not important when it comes to product formulation and the environment can be confusing. As society becomes more environmentally savvy, new strategies for conserving the planet will be revealed. For the time being, simply knowing the right questions to ask can provide a significant change in how the Earth and the skin are treated.

Ivana Veljkovic, Ph.D., works in product development and clinical trials for PCA Skin. She has previously worked as a research scientist specializing in the synthesis and purification of organic compounds. She has worked directly with physicians, nurses and estheticians, educating them on skin physiology, ingredients and proper treatments for specific skin conditions.

About

Let us know your thoughts about this article...

Rating:	Five Stars Four Stars Three Stars Two Stars One Stars No Stars
Your e-mail address:
Comments:
Questions for the author:
Verification code:
Enter code: