November 2007’s Featured Article:

Youth, at the Ocean’s Request

Seeking healthy skin with the help of marine enzymes

Over the past decade, the cosmetic market has seen an increased interest in the use of enzymes as active ingredients in skin care products. Enzymes are protein based molecules present in all living cells. The human body, for example, contains thousands of these miraculous structures. Enzymes play an indispensable role in life functions and are particularly important in the metabolic process of breaking down large, complex molecules into simpler compounds. They also help convert nutrients into energy.

All enzymes are biocatalysts—they work by accelerating biochemical reactions meaning that without enzymes, there can be no life. As an example, digesting our daily food intake without enzymes would take about 50 years, whereas with enzymes it takes one to two days. Enzymes are not only compatible with life, they are also its essence. All of our functions depend on them. With age, however, our enzyme production slows, making it essential for us to replenish them in order for our body, skin cells and skin connective tissue to function at their peak. Most people are aware of enzymes as digestive aids. Skin care enzymes are similar because they keep the skin at its best.

A wide range of enzyme origins

Enzymes’ features and functions in the body make them excellent choices for inclusion in the development of skin care formulations. Bacterial and fruit enzymes are easily obtained and appear to be the most common choice for a variety of products, from cleansers and exfoliants to moisturizers and masks. The enzymes bromelain from pineapple and papain from papaya fruit are among the most commonly used enzymes. In addition, the cosmetic industry has seen the arrival of animal enzymes, especially those obtained from a variety of mammalian tissues. These enzymes have proved to be effective when added to anti-aging formulations.

However, fruit and mammalian enzymes do have disadvantages. Due to their biological origins, their potency is subject to the presence of fairly high temperature ranges. Mammalian enzymes for example, reach their maximum potency at 60 to 70 degrees Celsius. Furthermore, mammalian enzymes run the risk of carrying disease. As a precaution, the Food and Drug Administration has dramatically modified its regulations of bovine ingredients imported into the USA.

Bountiful and pure

Most enzymes, be they of plant, animal or bacterial origin, are inactive or have low potency levels at room or skin temperature, thus play a weak role in proper skin care. Marine enzymes, on the other hand, are at their key potency level at room or skin temperature, making them elements in skin care products that result in more beneficial formulations. Cold-adapted marine enzymes are of special interest to skin care product manufacturers for topical administration.

Derived from cod, proteolytic or protein digesting marine enzymes such as trypsin and chymotrypsin, offer targeted results when included in skin care products. Some of the benefits they provide include natural skin exfoliation, microinflammation down-modulation, increased blood flow, increased skin nutrition, protein debris cleansing and skin decontamination. Marine enzymes also clear viruses, bacteria and fungi from the skin, provide wound and scar healing and improve acne and other skin conditions.

While clinical research of skin care ingredients tends to be controversial, the efficacy of marine enzymes has been thoroughly scrutinized. Their benefits are supported by scientific research conducted both on cells and humans.

Primary uses of marine enzymes in skin care

Purifying: Enzymatic activity cleanses the skin of harmful microorganisms and protects the surface against further contact. Proteolytic enzymes have the capacity to disable the pathogens related to conditions such as acne and even those caused by viruses, including herpes simplex. Marine enzyme research has also delivered promising results in the treatment of eczema. Enzymatic treatment of these maladies is side effect free and far less aggressive than treatments involving acids or antibiotics.

Exfoliating: Surface impurities and dead skin cells are literally dissolved, promoting a glowing, blemish free complexion. Enzymatic exfoliation is natural and gentle, making it accessible to a wider range of customers, including those with sensitive skin. Results include a reduction in pore size, fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation.

Calming: Marine enzymes minimize redness, irritation and blotchiness. Their antibacterial and soothing actions have proven to be indispensable in the treatment of conditions such as rosacea.

Anti-aging: They give skin a firmer, more youthful appearance and help reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eye area. Some marine enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase, also act as highly effective antioxidants that are able to substantially disperse the effects of free radicals.

Formulation advantages

The multifaceted nature of marine enzymes serves as a solid platform for product development. They can be used in the various skin care stages, i.e. cleansing, toning, moisturizing, etc., and the formula in which they are included requires a minute amount of additional ingredients. For activity and stability all the mixture needs is a suitable environment to support the marine enzyme used. Naturally, the pH of the base solution must be suited to the enzyme in the formulation, as well as the skin to which it is applied. Most importantly, the self-preserving nature of certain marine enzymes and their natural stabilizing formulations allow for preservative-free cosmetic compositions. These types of aqueous marine enzyme formulas are both pure and safe, thereby appealing to the modern consumer who is continually searching for natural and effective skin care therapies.

About Jón Bragi Bjarnason, Ph.D