What causes this condition?Before customizing anti-aging treatments for the specific needs of oily skin, it’s important to understand why certain individuals suffer from oily skin — starting with androgens. These “male” hormones are the leading sources of oil production and the growth of facial hair, which is why they play a significant role in skin changes for everyone from teens to mature women.
Our environment also plays a role in how much oil is secreted. Seasonal changes, sun exposure, temperature and humidity can all impact the amount of sebum the skin creates. It may also be stimulated by over-exfoliating the skin with hydroxy acids or scrubs, and nutritionally with high amounts of caffeine, carbohydrates and sugar in the diet. From a good home regimen to beneficial treatments, there are many solutions for oily skin and they all begin with a consultation and skin analysis.
Analyzing oily skinThe client intake form should be every skin care professional’s guide for successful treatments. Before you opt to perform an anti-aging treatment for oily skin, make sure you address the following questions:
When does your client experience the most oil? Is it a certain time of the day or after applying makeup? Is there a possible trigger that can be identified to help manage oil production?
How long has oily skin been a problem for them?
Has the client experienced any changes in hair growth patterns? Does she have a consistent menstrual cycle? Female clients who are experiencing an increase in hair growth with irregular cycles should be referred to a gynecologist.
1. Cleanse, tone and prepare peelChoose a gentle cleanser and toner formulated for oily skin. Salicylic acid is renowned for helping to manage oil on the skin’s surface while removing dirt and makeup.
2. Chemical peelSalicylic or glycolic acid peels are best suited for oily skin. Clients who experience blackheads, whiteheads and dehydration may benefit from the fast-acting exfoliation benefits of a glycolic peel. This acid dissolves the bonds of very superficial skin cells and can offer a dramatic improvement for oily skin that is dehydrated or lackluster. A salicylic peel is a beneficial option for oily skin types that show signs of active acne such as cysts, papules or pustules.
Follow your peel manufacturer’s instruction for application. It is important to note that steam and/or hot towels have the potential to encourage oil production.
3. Address vellus hair issuesAndrogens may increase the prevalence of vellus hair along the jawline and upper lip. Opt to dermaplane (or shave) the vellus hair. It should grow back just as it appears before dermaplaning, not darker or thicker.
Note: The term dermaplaning can be associated with a medical exfoliating procedure using a scalpel. For the safety of the professional and the client, opt for a disposable safety razor or eyebrow razor to dermaplane. In some states, dermaplaning is not in an esthetician’s scope of license and shaving the face may require a barber’s license. Be sure to check with your state licensing board and insurance company to verify that dermaplaning is within your scope of practice.
4. Crystal microdermabrasionUse proper crystal flow and suction settings. Test your microderm settings on the client by performing a very short pass near the angle of the jaw.
Thicker, damaged skin may tolerate more crystal; less crystal should be applied to thinner, delicate-looking skin. As a general rule, never microderm over capillary damage, open lesions or inflamed skin. Once the microderm portion of the procedure is complete, don’t brush the crystals off the face. Cleansing the skin allows the solution to pick up crystal residue and gives the skin a polish after the microderm treatment. Once the crystal and cleanser come together, you can provide added exfoliation to the crease and bridge of the nose, or areas where broken capillaries are present.
5. ExtractionsExtractions are a vital component to oily skin treatments and improve the look of the skin — when performed properly. As a skin care professional, it’s important to know the amount of pressure you are exerting to extract a blemish. This can only be felt with your hands and fingers. Comedone extractors can bruise or improperly extract blemishes.
6. Ultrasonic infusion and hydrationUltrasonic technology uses non-invasive sound energy with key products to offer a variety of benefits to the skin. The first mode of ultrasonic uses water and the hand piece to exfoliate. This process is beneficial for congested skin because it helps loosen and release compacted sebum from the pore. However, a chemical peel and microderm have already been performed, so there’s no need for ultrasonic exfoliation in this protocol. Skip right to the penetration mode. The seamless flow of the spatula across the face assists with lymphatic drainage, contours the look of the face, helps reduce puffiness around the eyes and increases circulation to the skin. This phase of the facial procedure is complete when the skin has absorbed the gel or serum completely.
7. Sun protectionA broad-spectrum sunscreen is all that is needed to complete the anti-aging treatment for oily skin. The skin should appear flushed and radiant with improved tone and texture — not red, irritated or inflamed.
A beneficial treatment for most oily skin concerns, this combination facial procedure can be administered in a series of six to eight treatments, four to six weeks apart. One of the most fundamental things to remember is that the client’s skin changes with the seasons of the year, product use, prescriptions, hormones, health, lifestyle and professional esthetic procedures. Take all of these variables into consideration with a skin analysis and consultation at every appointment. This will help ensure the best results for their changing skin.
The Benefits• Exfoliates dead skin cells to improve radiance
• Reduces the appearance of fine lines and softens wrinkles
• Softens and smoothes surface texture and acne scarring
• Decreases the frequency of breakouts and helps fade post-inflammatory lesions
• Improves skin tone and the appearance of hyperpigmentation
• Promotes lymphatic drainage
Contradictions• Allergy to salicylates or aspirin
• Open lesions (cuts or wounds), eczema or psoriasis
• Inflamed skin and inflammatory acne or rosacea
• Prevalent capillary damage
• Thin or delicate skin
• Unmanaged diabetes, lupus, viral or Herpes breakouts
• Blood thinner and/or pacemaker
• Accutane® prescription use within the past six months
• Overuse of benzoyl peroxide products
• Skin cancer diagnosis or questionable areas of the face
• Pregnancy or breastfeeding
• Tanning bed use or sun bathing
• Unwillingness to follow an adequate skin care regimen, particularly with sun care and acne management.