It used to be that curlers and a thick coat of mascara or fake lashes were the remedy for those less naturally endowed in the curly lash department. Today, permed eyelashes are a great alternative to lash extensions or fillers for those women who are happy with the length of their lashes but want that extra “wave” to open up the eye. It is a simple treatment that salons and spas should not be missing out on that will get anyone’s youthful look back.
Eye openerEyelash perming—eyelash permanent wave, also referred to as lash lift—is a fairly new treatment that offers a simple and popular solution to straight lashes. Not only does it immediately create a more “feminine and sexy” look, but it also boosts that youthful glow that your clients crave—men will also benefit from the younger look that eyelash perming offers.
Easy addition for salons and spasLash perming is an easy treatment to offer that requires very little training (practice a few times on co-workers or some other willing participants) and a relatively low cost investment that could bring big revenues to your locale. Starter kits, no matter what technique or brand, cost around $100 and have an average of 20 applications. Priced at the minimum $40 per treatment, it yields a profit of $700. If you already offer lash and brow treatments, adding lash perming to your menu is a no brainer. Treatment time can last anywhere from 20 to 50 min, enough to offer additional services to your clients. Would they like a lip treatment or a hand massage while they wait for that sought after curl to take shape? Be creative! With their eyes temporarily shut, now would be a great time to appeal to your clients’ sense of smell and delight them with the aromas of your latest products. Depending on the technique and brand chosen, the perm will last anywhere from 1 to 3 months—a great way to create happy return guests!
So what exactly does lash perming consist of? Let us break it down for you as we present the three most common techniques to perm lashes.
PrepBefore any lash perming service—no matter what technique is chosen—advise your client to take off their contacts and remove all cosmetics from their eyes with a non-oily makeup remover to prevent any products from interfering with the perm. What differs among these three techniques are the devices used to create the wave on the lashes; the products themselves (although the quality will vary) and the steps are relatively similar.
RodsThe technique that is often thought of when it comes to lash perming consists of placing rods on the eyelids. Rods are available in different sizes, depending on the length of the lashes and the tightness of the curl desired. After the client has picked the size of the rollers with your advice, they must be gently bent. Rollers have adhesive on them, so make sure to grab them by the sides to fit the shape of the eyelids and trim as needed.
Eyelid silicon padsAn alternative to the rods is the use of silicon pads—available in small, medium and large sizes—that follow the same principle as rods, except perhaps that the pads have a flat side that rests against the eyelid and does not have glue for the lashes to stick on.
ClipsYet another way to create the curl is the use of clips that consists of two plates that will lock together and delicately “trap” the eyelashes. The device has an upper curved plate and pad that fits all eyelids, and some allow for a choice of three different sized plates to create that natural looking wave. The bottom plate is a grid of sorts (the grid allows for the lotion to be placed) that covers the upper plate, gently “pushes” the lashes on the curved plate and keeps them in place.
Making the waveMost application consists of three products, a perm lotion, a setting lotion and a nourishing lotion. Technicians who choose to go with rods or silicon pads will often cover the lower lashes and lids with pads to protect the solution from getting into contact with them—clips do not require such measures to be taken. With rods and pads, you need to gently place the lashes onto them so that they are straight and do not overlap. Lash glue is added with an applicator to keep the lashes in place. The perm lotion is applied first, followed by the setting lotion and the nourishing lotion that conditions the lashes. Each lotion must be removed before the other is spread. Some brands instruct that the eyes be covered with wet pads or a plastic film while the perm lotion is taking effect—which is not applicable with the clips method.
Eyelash perming tips• The eyelash perm lotion does not damage the lashes (unless the perm lotion was left for too long, in which case the lash might frizz). Lashes will fall out and grow back as nature intended.
• Depending on the brand name you use, eyelash tinting may or may not be appropriate after a perm—some companies require a week before tinting can be done.
• Mascara can be applied right after the treatment.
• Eyelash perming cannot be combined with extensions—extensions can be applied about a week after the perm.
• Most brand names ask that the client avoids contact with water near the eyes for at least 24 hr after the treatment.
• Some brands advise against getting a perm if a lash growth product is being used—the product should be discontinued about 4 weeks beforehand.
• Pregnant women should consult a physician before perming their lashes.
• People with an eye infection, eyelid irritation, a rash or open sores around the eye area should refrain from getting a lash perm until the conditions have subsided.
• People with eyeliner tattoo must wait at least a week post tattoo before getting a lash perm.
• Always wear gloves during the treatment.